Ujung Kulon National Park West Java

 

Ujung Kulon National Park is located at the western-most tip of Java, Indonesia. It includes the volcanic island group of Krakatoa and other islands including Handeuleum and Peucang. The park encompasses an area of 1,206 km² (443 km² marine), most of which lies on a peninsula reaching into the Indian Ocean.

It is Indonesia's first national park and was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1992 for containing the largest remaining lowland rainforest in Java. It is also one of only two homes of the critically endangered Javan Rhinoceros. A population of fifty to sixty live in Ujung Kulon, a smaller population of possibly 10 or less, live in Cat Tien National Park, Vietnam. The mainland part of Ujung Kulon was formerly farmland until it was devastated and depopulated by the 1883 eruption of Krakatoa after which it returned to its original forested state.
 

Permits for the park are available at the town of Labuan, where there is a National Park office. There is also an office at Tamanjaya. Accommodation is available on Handeuleum and Peucang islands.
 

This national park, located in the extreme south-western tip of Java on the Sunda shelf, includes the Ujung Kulon peninsula and several offshore islands and encompasses the natural reserve of Krakatoa. In addition to its natural beauty and geological interest – particularly for the study of inland volcanoes – it contains the largest remaining area of lowland rainforests in the Java plain. Several species of endangered plants and animals can be found there, the Javan rhinoceros being the most seriously under threat.

760 sq km of the peninsula and sea on Java's very remote south-western tip is devoted to Ujung Kulon National Park. Several offshore islands are included in the reserve, Peucang, Panaitan and one of which is the remains of a pre-16th century volcano. In 1883 the island of Rakata Besar exploded dramatically. It lost about half of its land area in the process and sent tidal waves across the Indian Ocean causing the deaths of 36,000 people. The smoking cone which can be seen today signals Anak Krakatau, offspring of the famous Krakatau. It appeared in 1929 and has continued to grow steadily; Java is one of the most geologically active places in the world.

Ujung Kulon has large tracts of undisturbed lowland rainforest, swamps and beaches. Because it is protected on three sides by sea, and on the fourth by the Honje mountains, it has provided a refuge for wildlife, some of which are now rare in the rest of heavily populated Java (population: over 100 million).

In the mid-1950s only 20-25 tigers remained on Java; half of these were in Ujung Kulon, but these are known to have vanished by the 1960s. The exact time of extinction for the Javan tiger remains unknown, but this was probably sometime in the 1980s. It was after this time, between 1980 and 1986 that the number of wild areas of Indonesia officially designated National Parks rose from five to sixteen. Ujung Kulon was one of the earliest preserved areas, first being protected in 1910, then declared a reserve in 1937. Come 1980 the designation was changed and became Indonesia 's first National park.

Ujung Kulon has always been of extremely high conservation value and contains several species of endangered or threatened animals. Oriental small-clawed otters, hornbills, leopards, Asian wild dogs, Javan leaf monkeys, crocodiles, green peafowl, Javan gibbons, Javan warty pigs, green turtles, milky storks and Banteng wild cattle all make their homes here. In total, over 350 species of animals and 250 species of birds have so far been recorded here.

The most important resident of the park is the Javan or Lesser One-horned rhinoceros. This is the most endangered large mammal in the world and only two wild populations remain (there are no Javan rhinoceros in captivity). Ujung Kulon contains 50-60 animals while Cat Tien National Park in Vietnam has another 10-15 with different physical characteristics. The two subspecies used to be common over India, Bhutan, Bangladesh, China, Myanmar, Thailand, Laos, Cambodia, Vietnam, Malaysia, Sumatra and Java.

In an attempt to save the small stable population in Ujung Kulon, efforts are being made to prevent the illegal access which is gained both from land and sea. Though the number of rhino is not increasing, the age structure shows change, so it is thought the amount of poaching is higher than originally considered. This cancels out the expected yearly population increases. Having said that, there have indeed been some rises in numbers. Back in 1967 Ujung Kulon rhino plunged to an all time low of 21-28 animals.

The population originally came under threat due to loss of habitat, and medicine or sport hunting. Male rhino are most at risk from poaching as they have the dense formation of hair which makes up a large horn. Females usually have no horn, and when they do, it's insignificant. As with tiger bone, rhino horn is highly valued in traditional Asian medicine, and also in common with the tiger, there is no proof it has anymore effect than a placebo. Its primary use is as an aphrodisiac.

It is possible the present population may be at or near carrying capacity; the park maximum is estimated to be in the region of 80-100 rhino. Translocation of excess animals to restock Vietnam is not able to be done. The two groups are very different and cross-breeding is not thought to be possible. Translocation of rhino is very difficult anyway with low survival rates. Even if placed in captivity these large mammals would have a very high mortality (about 30%); this is usual for captive rhino.

Fecal DNA analysis and camera traps are being utilised to gain a better understanding of the current population. Habitat, food availability, and the possibility of translocation are also under examination.

Like all Indonesian National Parks Ujung Kulon continues to increase in popularity. Though reaching Ujong Kulon is expensive and usually involves a long boat ride which, except for the dry season, can be a rough trip, it is now one of the most popular National Parks on Java. Even the thought of the recommended malaria shots don't seem to put visitors off. Fortunately, access to the area is strictly controlled and a permit must be gained for entry, while guides are required for those wanting to hike through the park.

Ujung Kulon National Park is the first national park, founded in Indonesia. The park (80,000 ha) lies on a peninsula in south-west Java and includes the islands Pulau Peucang, Pulau Panaitan and the Krakatau archipelago. On 1 February, 1992, the Proposed Ujung Kulon National Park complex and the Krakatau Islands Nature Reserve were declared a World Heritage Site. The borders on the north, south and west side of Ujung Kulon are made up by the Indian Ocean. The Honje mountain range, including the highest point of the park Gunung Honje (620 m), forms the eastern border. The Indian Ocean is the main access route.

Single-horned RhinocerousHabitats in the park consists of lowland rainforest, swamp, mangrove and beach forest. Vegetation on Pulau Panaitan consists of dry-beach forest, mangrove forest and lowland rain forest which is characterized by an abudance of palms. On Anak Krakatau, the island that came into existence after the Krakatau exploded, flora and fauna are still young. Small animals and birds gradually colonize the lava island. The principal flora consists of grasslands, beach forest, lowland rain forest and moss forests at the higher altitudes. The most important reason to declare Ujung Kulon a National Park is the existence of the almost-extinct Javan Rhinoceroses in the area. The population of these extremely endangered animals in Ujung Kulon is estimated to be 50-60.

Getting There
Ujung Kulon National Park is accessible by boat (5-6 hour) from Labuan. You can get to Labuan by minibus from Jakarta (3-4 hour) or Bogor. An other possibility is to take a bus with destination Merak from Kalideres bus station in Jakarta. Get out in Cilegon and from there catch a bus to Labuan.The boat from Labuan leaves for Pulau Peucang or Tamanjaya.
The beach of Ujung KulonComing from Sumatra by ferry, your journey will end in Merak. From Merak, take the bus to Jakarta, jump off in Cilegon and from there see above. There may be minibuses going all the way from Merak to Labuan. A cheaper alternative to access the park runs over land. From Labuan you may take the HM minibus (from Serang bus station) or a taxi to Tamanjaya (about Rp. 25,000, 3,5 hrs). In Tamanjaya you'll be able to arrange a boat to Pulau Peucang (Rp. 700,000), Pulau Handeleum (Rp. 200,000) or Pulau Panaitan (Rp. 900,000); mooring and boat entry permits are not included. Krakatau is best visited from Labuan.

Where to Stay
Permits, local guides speaking only bahasa Indonesia (about Rp. 30,000/day, excluding meals and cigarettes), English-speaking guides (Rp. 100,000/day, excluding meals and cigarettes) and accommodation can be arranged at the PHPA office in Labuan, or at Kagum in Jakarta. You can also find accomodation in Ujung Kulon. But it's always best to plan ahead.

Moving Around
Navigate around the park on foot. If it's your first time here, you may want to consider hiring an English-speaking guide.

Dining Guide
Although you can order meals at places of accomodation, you should bring your own food for the trip.

Souvenir Tips
Unfortunately, not much to hope for. There may be some rhinoceros figures for sale, but you'll have to keep a keen eye on the quality. Ask your guide for keepsake recommendation, things that you're allowed to pick up along the way and will remind you for this pleasant experience.

Other Things to See or Do
Round Pulau Peucang and Pulau Panaitan you'll be able to snorkel and dive among beautiful coral reefs.

Travel Tips
The best time to visit the park is April to August, when the sea is calm, so you won't get seasick.
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